I started fly fishing when I was about twelve years old. The same year I started chasing our local brook trout with my $25 dollar 7 weight Eagle Claw rod, I got a basic fly tying kit and a book of beginner fly patterns for Christmas. We were enthusiastic bird hunters, so I had access to more game bird feathers than I could use in a lifetime of tying, and many of the other materials like a patch of elk hair were fairly inexpensive even for an unemployed boy to obtain. However, the reality of my youthful budget resulted in a creative-- one might even say scrounging -- approach to fly tying materials. When you can’t afford what flies are supposed to be made of, it opens your eyes to all of the things around you that a fly could be made of. My dad and I caught a lot of bass on crawdad flies with claws made of scrap leather. Most of my nymphs were tied without hackle in the hair’s ear style with “rub-a-dog” dubbing. The trout didn’t seem to care that the expensive feathers had been omitted.
I haven’t tied a fly with a pipe cleaner for decades; but even though I can now afford the materials I want, I still try to think outside of the fly shop for some of my materials. I became a more innovative and creative fly tier through figuring out how to make do with what was on hand or could be obtained for little or no money. So whether you are on a tight budget or you just get a kick out of creating something new, here are some of my favorite budget friendly fly fishing materials and where to find them.
Bead Chain:
The bead chain commonly used for key chains and light pulls is an excellent material for eyes for streamers and large nymphs. It is widely available in a wide variety of sizes and colors, but the most commonly found silver and gold chains that you likely have around your home are about the right size for a size 8 to 10 streamer. Simply snip two beads off from the chain with a pair of pliers and you’re ready to tie your eyes in place.
Where to find it: junk drawer, hardware store, living room ceiling fan
Easter Basket Filling:
When I first became aware of flashback style nymphs in the 90s, we were still doing Easter baskets in my family. One year, the plastic eggs and chocolates were nestled in narrow strips of semi-transparent pearlescent plastic “grass”. I filled a zip-lock with enough to keep me supplied for years. The material is already about the correct width for streamers and is easily trimmed for smaller flies. It holds up well to being mauled by multiple fish especially when a wire rib is wrapped over it and adds iridescence to minnow and nymph patterns. I have also seen similar material used for gift bows.
Where to find it: Your kid or other small relative’s Easter basket, Easter Egg hunts at your local public park
Rub-a-dog Dubbing:
I grew up with Chesapeake Bay retrievers. They shed a virtual blizzard of brown hair year round with especially violent storms in the spring. This was distressing to my mother, but there was a silver lining for the broke fly tier because Chessies have a double coat consisting of longer, coarse guard hairs and a soft, dense undercoat. This combination behaves very similarly to the dubbing used for hair’s ear nymphs and makes exceptional buggy flies. The only limitation is in the color as you are stuck with whatever color your dog happens to be. Don’t have a Chessie in your life? My buddy Pat, has been catching trophy brown trout with hair jigs tied with the hair of his Bernese mountain dog.
Where to find it: best if collected directly from the dog; under the fridge; seasonally, literally everywhere
Reclaimed Copper Wire:
Most of us are surrounded by cords and cables for various electronic devices. They’re everywhere and they are filled with copper wire. If you are tying dozens of Copper Johns, you are probably going to end up buying spooled wire, but if your wire needs are more moderate you can eliminate some of the cables cluttering your life and have what you need for your next batch of flies. Win-win! Depending on what cable you are salvaging the wire may be too fine for many applications, but it is usually about right for use as ribbing on trout flies.
Where to find it: junk drawer, forgotten corners of the home
Bungee Cord:
Bungee or shock cord plays a role in most outdoor enthusiast’s lives. It keeps our tent poles together and keeps our stuff attached to our trailers and vehicle roofs. Bungee cord is also a great supply of rubber legs for fly tying. Smaller shock cord like that used for tent poles is made of fine rubber strands suitable for smaller flies whereas bungee cords have strands that are right for terrestrial patterns.
The color options are limited as the interior rubber strands are almost always white, but it is still well worth salvaging a section of a damaged bungee instead of throwing it away if you tie patterns with rubber legs.
Where to find it: roadsides, attached to trailers and tarps, inside the tent poles of your fly fishing buddies.
Taxidermist Scraps:
One of the best pieces of advice I received as a novice scrounger of fly tying materials was to visit a taxidermist and ask if they were willing to part with any scraps from mounts. I never did tie that fly with elephant hair antenna, but it was a kick to tie streamers with American bison and mountain goat hair, and I still haven’t run out of caribou that I use as a substitute for deer or elk hair more than a decade later. You might not be able to get exactly what you want for a specific fly recipe; but if a taxidermist is willing to part with their leftovers, you may have the chance to create fly patterns with materials that are unusual or difficult to obtain.
Where to find it: taxidermist shop
Thrift Shop Magic:
Thrift shop magic isn’t a specific material; it is an opportunistic and creative mindset. If you find yourself in a thrift shop or garage sale keep your eyes and mind open. There is a lot of appalling clothing that should be destroyed and repurposed to more noble ends (such as the deception of fish). These can be a great source of synthetic fur for streamers or rabbit fur for zonker strips or dubbing. Feather boas are often made of marriboo. Peacock feathers might feature in a tacky decoration.
Where to find it: thrift shops, garage sales, flea markets, pawn shops
These are a few of my favorite low-cost fly tying materials, but this isn’t meant to be an exhaustive list. Over the years I have read about tiers using porcupine quills or crochet yarn for the bodies of their flies or a piece of snickers wrapper for the wing casing on nymphs. No matter what your budget or skill level, thinking outside the fly shop for your materials can help make you a more creative tier, and there is a simple pleasure in catching fish on something unique that you have made – especially if you get asked what you’re fishing with. So keep your eyes open, and next time you sit at your vice try something new with the materials you already have around.
If you have a non-traditional, budget friendly fly tying material that you like to use, post a comment with what the material is and how you use it.
Post Authored by: Seth Ewing
]]>I recently received a catalog from one of the major backpack manufacturers in the US, and I have to say the images presented backpacking in a way that was, well, misleading. There were no mosquitoes. Everyone was clean and smiling and the weather looked perfect. Now of course they were trying to sell me something, so perhaps they can be forgiven for choosing to emphasize the positive; but what I saw on those glossy pages wasn’t really different from most of the backpacking images on social media. Don’t get me wrong, I have experienced a lot of “perfect” moments as a backpacker and have taken my share of pictures that would tell a false story on their own, but that sweet-smelling, blister-free, easy image of backpacking isn’t real.
Real backpacking is often, to steal the words of the late Patrick McManus, “a fine and pleasant misery.” It’s often uncomfortable. Smoke blows in your eyes and you might develop a stink that can part a cloud of gnats after a few days sweating in the same clothes. Your choices have higher stakes than they do in the front country. A careless movement may mean not having anything to eat for dinner or may turn what would have been a pleasant walk into a very long hobble. You don’t have to enjoy suffering for suffering’s sake, but the challenges are what make those breathtaking sunsets and summits so rewarding. The skills and toughness needed to survive and thrive in wild places, the chance to learn that all you need can be carried on your back, those are the things that make backpacking so special.
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I recently received a catalog from one of the major backpack manufacturers in the US, and I have to say the images presented backpacking in a way that was, well, misleading. There were no mosquitoes. Everyone was clean and smiling and the weather looked perfect. Now of course they were trying to sell me something, so perhaps they can be forgiven for choosing to emphasize the positive; but what I saw on those glossy pages wasn’t really different from most of the backpacking images on social media. Don’t get me wrong, I have experienced a lot of “perfect” moments as a backpacker and have taken my share of pictures that would tell a false story on their own, but that sweet-smelling, blister-free, easy image of backpacking isn’t real.
Real backpacking is often, to steal the words of the late Patrick McManus, “a fine and pleasant misery.” It’s often uncomfortable. Smoke blows in your eyes and you might develop a stink that can part a cloud of gnats after a few days sweating in the same clothes. Your choices have higher stakes than they do in the front country. A careless movement may mean not having anything to eat for dinner or may turn what would have been a pleasant walk into a very long hobble. You don’t have to enjoy suffering for suffering’s sake, but the challenges are what make those breathtaking sunsets and summits so rewarding. The skills and toughness needed to survive and thrive in wild places, the chance to learn that all you need can be carried on your back, those are the things that make backpacking so special.
(Seth's poor feet after a brutal Alps solo trip. He is resting his feet in his camp shoes between treks)
So if you desire to step out of your comfort zone and experience a simpler way of living, if you want to get away from the buzz of electric lights and see the stars wheeling above the pines, if you don’t mind some bugs, blisters, and the occasional hail storm; then this is a good year to start backpacking.
Seth's Camp Cooking Set Up
If you are considering taking your first backpacking trip, here are 10 tips to help make sure that you get to experience the fine and pleasant parts and not just the misery.
Be Realistic About Your Abilities And Capacity
There has been a concerted effort by outdoor companies to make backpacking more inclusive. One of the big advantages of this marketing strategy is that no matter who you are, you can probably find gear that will work for your body. What “backpacking for everyone” can’t mean in the real world is that you are up for doing anything anyone else can do. As you plan your first trip, you need to be honest about things like your overall fitness and tolerance of pain/discomfort. You don’t need the physique of a Greek god to backpack, but you’ll want to limit your total daily mileage and elevation gained if you get winded walking across the parking lot. You will also want to assess areas such as your capacity for discomfort, first aid skills, and backcountry navigation. It’s okay to be a beginner. Start small. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that the epic trip is the only one worth taking and choose the adventure that fits you.
Learn To Assess Risk
Risk assessment isn’t necessarily something that most modern people engage with consciously. In the industrialized world we are surrounded by countless laws and regulations meant to keep us safe; and when something goes wrong, emergency services are only a phone call away. If I don’t dress for the weather and get soaked by icy rain walking home from my office, I don’t suffer any more serious consequence than feeling silly and needing a hot shower. The same poor decision making while backpacking could easily result in hypothermia or a trip cut short because easy ways to get warm and dry just aren’t available. Remember that when you are backpacking you are responsible for your own safety and your resources are limited. Learning to be aware of your surroundings and navigating the potential risks is a necessary and satisfying element of backpacking.
Try It With A Friend Or Two
I love solo backpacking, but it is different than going with people you enjoy. Solo trips tend to amplify the stresses and consequences inherent in the sport. Of course a bad companion can make a trip much worse; but, in general, backpacking with a group is safer, easier, and more enjoyable than going solo. One of the greatest safety advantages of being in a group is having someone who can administer first aid or get help if someone is seriously hurt. Most negative interactions with wildlife (i.e. bears chewing on your legs) happen to soloists. Group backpacking is easier physically because camp chores such as gathering firewood and filtering water are shared and some heavy items such as tents or cooking gear can be distributed among multiple packs. Perhaps even more significant than the physical benefits of going in a group is the mental benefit. For instance, switchbacks are just easier to climb with a partner– it isn’t necessarily rational but it is true nonetheless– and shared memories from an adventure and the stories told around the fire are some of the best experiences backpacking has to offer.
Seth in the Swiss Alps on a Solo Trip
Research Your Location And Know The Rules
Your first backpacking trip will probably happen on public land. Whether it is managed by the National Park Service, the BLM, National Forest, or the state there are probably some rules you need to follow. Many trailheads post the rules for the areas to which they provide access, but you should learn as much as you can before leaving home. In some areas of my state fires are prohibited without a fire pan or fire blanket and ash has to be packed out (i.e. no fires for me). Some areas require special gear such as a bear barrel for overnight trips. Increasingly, some very high use areas are requiring that backpackers pack out their poop. If you insist on going to such an area, you need to be prepared before you leave home to avoid – shall we say– awkward solutions or being fined.
While I am not going to try to defend every regulation, knowing and following the rules set down for public land use is critical to protect the wild places we enjoy as backpackers. It only takes a few careless or selfish individuals to have lasting negative impacts.
Are Critters A Concern?
You’re probably thinking about bears now (When was the last time you read about a hiker being mauled by a chipmunk?) but depending on the location there are other animals that are worth thinking about too. In most of North America, if you travel in a group and avoid traveling in low light conditions, you probably aren’t going to be attacked by an animal on the trail. The majority of negative interactions with wildlife on the trail come from an animal being surprised, and most groups make enough noise without special effort to clear the trail of critters.
If you are hiking in an area where surprising a bear or moose is more likely, it is worth making a little extra noise. Some hikers attach bells to their backs or clothing, but having a conversation or groaning under the weight of your pack should be sufficient. Bear spray may be worth investing in, but practice is required in order to effectively use it.
Mosquitos and other biting insects are the critters that have had the biggest impact on my backpacking. If you are going into the high country during the summer, do yourself a favor, bring the Deet. There are other options, but my experience is, use Deet or get eaten.
Various camp robbers should also be on your radar. Whether it is a field mouse or a black bear, the best way to avoid issues is to keep all food and food adjacent items (anything a stupid dog might try to eat i.e. chapstick, scented sunscreen, toothpaste…) isolated away from where you are sleeping; and, when possible, hang your food in a tree. Rodents will chew through the wall of a tent or through a backpack to get at food. Bottom line, don’t eat, cook, or store any food like substance any closer to where you are sleeping than you are comfortable with having a bear trying to eat it.
What You Should Have In Your Pack
The following gear list is meant to be a starting point for a summer backpacking trip in the Rockies. There is gear that is marked as optional that you may consider essential and you can do without some of the “essentials” too. I usually take a camp chair and a collapsible cup on my trips and those items didn’t make the list at all. One of my favorite parts of backpacking is trying to be smart about making the choices of how much weight I want to carry vs how comfortable I want to be in camp. I would advise a beginner to avoid trying to go too light or too heavy until they figure out what style suits them best. A total pack weight of between 30 and 40 lbs for a 3-4 day trip (including food and water) is a good goal.
(Optional gear marked with an asterisk)
Clothes:
Boots (already broken in)
Camp shoes or sandals*
quick dry shorts or pants and shirt
set of warm clothes (light gloves and a warm hat are super nice)
extra socks and underwear
rain jacket or poncho
Gear:
Sleeping bag rated 20 degrees or lower
Tent or tarp (8x10 or bigger)
Sleeping pad
Bowl
silverware of your choice
2 32oz water bottles or hydration bladder
bag you can hang food and 30 ft of paracord
sunglasses
hat
sunscreen
bug spray
Toilet Paper or flushable wipes
Headlamp or flashlight
knife*
water filter
first aid kit
backpacking stove with fuel
matches or lighter
cooking pot
camera*
walking stick or trekking poles*
Rent Gear/Use What You Have
Like any other specialized pastime, quality backpacking gear can be spendy. Rather than dropping hundreds of dollars on gear that will just sit in storage if you determine that backpacking isn’t your thing, consider renting some of the more expensive items like a sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent, and pack. Some outdoor retailers like REI rent out gear. Many colleges and universities have outdoor programs that provide rentals to both students and community members. As an added bonus these rental facilities will probably have staff who can help you make sure that you get gear that fits properly and is suitable for your adventure. In addition to renting some of the more expensive pieces of gear, you can keep the cost of your first backpacking trips down by using what you have. Other than light weight rain gear, my backpacking clothing consists of clothes I already own (exercise and hunting clothing can make excellent backpacking layers). Instead of an expensive backpacking camp pot, I use a cut down coffee can. Be creative and you can give yourself a chance to try out backpacking without breaking the bank.
What You Should Eat
One of the key concerns for backpacking food is weight. In general the lighter your pack the happier your body is going to be on the trail. The other side of the coin is that you will probably be burning more calories than normal unless you have a very active job. Freeze dried meals are an excellent option for meals that are light, easy to prepare, and calorie dense; but they are expensive. If your budget doesn’t allow for $10- $15 dollars per meal, you can prepare your own dehydrated meals in advance . There are hundreds of recipes available for free online. Find a few that look good to you and make them far enough in advance that you can try them before your trip. While food generally tastes better when you’ve been working hard, it can be a real blow to morale if your dinner is vile. If you are less ambitious or more pressed for time, Idaho instant mashed potatoes are available at most grocery stores and make a great emergency ration or side. Knorr meals aren’t fine cuisine but they cost less than $2 a meal. I prefer to eat food that doesn’t require cooking for lunches. Trail mix, especially those that are heavy on nuts, are calorie dense and help replace the salts lost to sweat. Jerky and dried fruit are good to provide variety to your diet and don’t spoil in summer heat. If you are expecting high temperatures, consider taking a supplement to add to your water to replace electrolytes. Gatorade powder is cheap and works well, but there are options like Nuun tablets that contain less sugar. Instant oatmeal makes a lightweight, easy breakfast; but if you need more protein in the morning, consider freeze dried eggs or supplementing the oatmeal with a protein bar.
Plan Your Poop
Sorry there isn’t a delicate way of talking about this, but if you go out into the woods for days you are going to have to give back to nature. From field observations taken in my backpacking haunts over the last 3 years, a significant percentage of new backpackers (at least I hope they’re newcomers) don’t know the basics of how to poop in the woods. There is nothing that destroys the enjoyment of a campsite quite like settling down to cook dinner and looking over to see toilet paper protruding from under a rock 10 feet away. It only takes a season for a pristine spot to become a latrine. Don’t be the person who pooped in camp. When it comes time to commune with nature, pick an isolated spot WELL away from camp and at least 200 ft from water. Dig a hole, preferably at least 6 inches deep. You can take a small trowel or use what is on hand. Once you have done the deed, fill the hole back in. Increasingly areas are requiring that any toilet paper used be packed out, because it bio-degrades slowly. Check the regulations before your trip. The goal is to avoid water contamination and to hide what you’ve done so no one has to interact with your feces at any level.
Practice Trail Etiquette
You may want to backpack to get away from other people, but more people are spending time in the backcountry than ever before, and you are going to run into them on the trail or be camped at the same lake as them. Here are a few simple rules to follow when on the trail and in camp.
Yield right of way to stock animals and to hikers working uphill.
When yielding to stock, get off the trail on the downhill side. Stock animals may perceive you as an ambush predator if you are lurking above them. Often a hiker coming uphill wants a break and may yield to you, but that should be their choice. Climbing is more physically and mentally demanding than descending, and uphill traffic should be allowed to maintain momentum.
Be considerate of others with your noise. This should be a no-brainer, but it isn’t. The majority of backpackers are out in the wild because they want to experience nature. While this looks different for different people, it is safe to assume that the other people you encounter on your adventure did not drive hours from their homes and then labor under a pack beneath the hot sun to experience you.
The couple camped on the other side of the lake doesn’t want you to be their adventure DJ with your portable speaker no matter how excellent your taste in music is. No one came to the mountains to hear the buzz of your drone, or hear your shouted conversations. The point is not that you can’t have a good time, or that you have to be silent in the woods– far from it – but DO be aware of the impact that your noise might be having on your neighbor’s ability to enjoy the wild place you have all worked hard to get to. Whether it is how you interact with others on the trail or in camp, trail etiquette boils down to an extension of the rules that govern not being a jerk in the front country. If all of us take the time to respect our fellow adventurers, we will all ultimately have a better experience.
There is a lot more to backpacking than can fit into a single blog post but these tips will give you a good foundation for your first trip. All that remains is for you to lace up your boots and make it happen. Happy trails!
Article Authored by Seth Ewing and posted by Patrick Edwards
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Finally, landing the fish is also important. You will want to plan on having a net or other way of securing the fish once you get it to shore. I hand land most of my fish, but I have years of experience doing this. I suggest a landing net with rubber mesh, which is easier on the fins of the fish and will allow you to release them in better condition if that is your goal.
RULE #4 - Location
The best place to find a trophy trout can vary depending on time of year and your specific region. There are key things to look for in different bodies of water that are a good bet.
Rivers: The best place to begin on a river is below the dam if the river has a reservoir. Dams hold big fish, pretty much all year long. The other primary spots on rivers are the bends. Typically, bends of rivers have deeper water and holes that can hold bigger predatory fish. I also look for rocks, fallen trees and other structures that will hold fish.
Lakes: Inlets and outlets of natural lakes are the most logical places to begin looking. Bigger fish will hold in those areas because the forage tends to be concentrated there. I also look for structure, depth changes and bottom content transitions from hard bottom to soft.
RULE #5 - Presentation
Presenting your lures to these big fish is important. If you are not presenting the lures properly, your chances of getting a strike or landing a fish are slim to none. Below is the presentation strategy for the four lures listed on page 3.
X-Rap: The X-Rap is hard to present incorrectly. You can fish it by casting out and doing a straight retrieve, rip and pause, speed up and slow down or burn it back. Because the lure suspends, it makes it very easy to present. My most effective retrieve is to twitch my rod tip hard two or three times and pause the lure. Sometimes I'll pause for up to 10 seconds before repeating that cadence.
Mooneye Jig: I use this presentation in rivers, reservoirs and lakes. I like a 1/8 oz jig and a white 3" Berkley Power Minnow. I cast out as far as I can, let the jig sink to the bottom or close to it and then slowly lift and shake my rod. This makes the lure look like a struggling baitfish. If you are fishing a river, focus on areas where the fast moving water transitions to slack (known as the seam), deep holes, and any area with cover nearby.
PK FlutterFish: I use this presentation everywhere and for everything. The FlutterFish is a great lure because it can be trolled, casted or jigged vertically from a boat or on the ice. I like to fish this lure below dams especially. Cast up towards the dam, let the lure flutter down for a few seconds, rip the lure up in the water column a few feet, let it flutter down and repeat as you slowly reel it back. This works well in reservoirs and lakes also.
PK Ridgeline Crankbait: This lure is deadly for big trout when trolled. I often catch big trout and walleye trolling this lure 100' to 120' behind the boat. This lure gives off a ton of vibration and is loaded with rattles, which causes the big trout to come and inspect it.
Conclusion
If you are striving to snag a new personal best, catch more fish or try some new techniques, these 5 rules will help point you in the right direction. Remember to do your research and visit with your local biologists, they are a well of great information. Choose gear and lures that are going to give you the best chances of bringing home that trophy. Learn where larger fish dwell in the bodies of water in your area and how to present your bait so that the fish can’t resist it.
I'd love to hear from you! Email me at anglingwyoming@gmail.com to share your results. Good luck out there and be safe on the water!
Patrick Edwards
@anglingwyoming
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A high mountain golden trout caught by the author, Seth Ewing
The real exclusivity of fly fishing has nothing to do with socioeconomics, it has to do with the additional skills needed and the limitations that fly tackle imposes on the angler. Fly fishing is a little bit like choosing to use a muzzle loader instead of a rifle to hunt elk. The fly angler often has to work a bit harder, get closer to the target, and pay even closer attention to the environment than anglers using other tackle. In most, but not all, situations fly fishing isn’t the most effective method to catch fish. It isn’t an accident that tournament anglers aren’t primarily pursuing bass and walleye with flies. Even in the small rivers and streams that are tailor-made for fly anglers, fly fishing isn’t as user friendly as throwing a spinner because the presentation of a fly is easily ruined by the currents. So, if you are looking for the easiest method to catch fish, if you are looking to catch the most and biggest fish in the widest variety of environments; then fly fishing probably isn’t for you.
But perhaps you are after something other than pure efficiency and effectiveness. There is an unmatched satisfaction to be found in the simplicity of standing knee deep in cold, clear free flowing water, feeling the rhythm and poetry of fly casting. There is magic when you read the water to determine exactly where the most aggressive trout is going to be, perfectly drift your fly to it working with the current, and then the fish you knew would be there takes your fly and the fight is on! I’m not a fly fishing snob. I personally use baitcasting, spinning, and fly fishing equipment depending on what makes the most sense on the day; but if I got to only fish one day a year, you’d find me deep in the mountains wading a river pursuing trout with my fly rod. There’s truly nothing like it. If you are interested in fly fishing, you are in for a treat. It takes some extra work, but the experiences are definitely worth the investment!
Seth Ewing with an Idaho Rainbow Trout
Prospective fly anglers are often advised to start by hiring a guide. That’s great if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars to burn, but for many of us that isn’t possible or responsible. It’s also a fair assumption that if you are reading this blog post you don’t have a fly fishing friend willing to lend you gear and teach you how to use it. So how can you become a self-taught fly angler?
The first step to your journey into fly fishing is to think about what kind of fish you want to pursue and what kind of initial investment you are willing to make in buying gear. If your dream is to catch a northern pike on a fly (and if it isn’t, why not? https://youtu.be/cb2iw8P2Ekc) you will want a very different setup from what you would use to target trout in alpine lakes. Your target species may impact how much you need to spend to acquire adequate gear. If you are wanting to catch bluegill at your local pond you will be able to get away with budget gear that would fail if confronted with a monster pike.
As a beginner, consider buying a fly rod-reel combo pre-spooled with backing, weight forward floating fly line matching the weight of the rod, and a tapered leader. If you intend to backpack with your flyrod or take it along on hunting trips, get a 3 or 4 piece rod with a carrying case. Most outdoor retailers will carry at least a couple of combo options, but they are easily obtainable online if your local store doesn’t stock what you need. You can also choose to mix and match by purchasing the components separately, but until you begin to master the basics of fly fishing you will likely be overwhelmed by the choices. Combos generally have beginners in mind. If you do choose to customize your set up, it may be worth talking to a fly shop. Go into this conversation with your hard-capped budget or risk overspending on gear that you won’t be able to appreciate. There’s a good chance you won’t be able to tell the difference between a $50 rod and one costing three times that much until you have mastered your cast and spent a season or two actually fishing, at which point you can evaluate whether better gear is necessary for you as an angler.
In general:
If you are going to target panfish or trout in streams and small rivers, buy a 5 or 6 weight rod.
If your primary target will be bass or large trout, consider a 7 weight.
If you are targeting pike or other big game buy an 8 weight or heavier.
You will also want to purchase a couple spare tapered leaders with line strength matched to your target species. One or two leaders should be plenty for starting. You should buy a spool of tippet. Tippet is the line that gets tied onto the monofilament leader when it gets too short. You can buy fly fishing specific tippet that is relatively expensive, or you can buy a small spool of Trilene which tends to be tougher and tie better knots than any fly fishing specific product I have ever used. The tippet should have close to the same break strain rating as your tapered leader. I like to keep things simple, and find that I can happily get away with 4 pound test tippet for everything from panfish to 18 inch class trout in strong current.
Brookie Trout from Camp Lake Colorado
You will also need a selection of flies and something to put them in. The flies you choose will depend on the fishing you intend to do, and every fly angler has their own go-to flies. Once again a local fly shop will be able to give you more specific guidance for your area, but if you are intending to target trout in mountain streams and lakes my top 6 flies are:
Black or olive Wooly Buggers (size 8 -10)
Elk Hair Caddis (size 14 -16)
Stimulator (size 8- 10)
Mosquito (size 14- 18)
Bead-head Prince Nymph (size 14-16)
Weighted Stone Fly (size 8 -10)
Pictured: The six flies from the list above
Other gear worth considering if you have any budget left
Once you have obtained your gear the next step is to hit the lawn. You will be tempted to just go to the nearest pond or stream and immediately start fishing, but resist! Unless you are one of those obnoxious individuals who is good at everything they do immediately, fly casting takes time to build competence and can be frustrating. Taking time to learn basic casting skills before you hit the water will greatly increase your chances of enjoying your time and catching fish.
There are a lot of good videos on YouTube that will demonstrate the basic mechanics of casting. If you can, load one (such as https://youtu.be/oDJJ6W23gHw) that you like on your phone and head to the back yard. If you have tied a fly onto your leader/tippet remove it. Unlike spinning or baitcasting gear where the weight of the lure is what pulls the line when you cast; in fly fishing, it is the weight of the fly line that casts the fly. This means that all the fly adds to your practice casting is the possibility of hooking something that shouldn’t be hooked. To keep yourself entertained as you practice it is a good idea to give yourself a target like a loop of garden hose to cast to, better yet, tie on a piece of yarn to your tippet and “fish” for your cat.
Before you hit the water, get comfortable with both a standard cast and a roll cast.
After a practice session or two the next step is to fish for some bluegill. The exact species is actually not important—what you are looking for is a situation that combines the key factors of abundant, aggressively feeding fish that aren’t picky about what they eat; reachable by a relatively short cast; living in an environment that lacks tricky currents that will ruin the fly’s presentation. Another excellent beginner option would be fishing a beaver pond full of brook trout. Becoming a good fly angler is challenging. You want to stack the deck in your favor for having success catching to reward yourself for the work you are putting into developing your skills.
Brown trout from the Provo River near Heber Utah
Following these two steps of practicing off the water and finding an easy situation to catch fish will have you well on your way to becoming a competent fly angler. The final step is to keep learning, both from your personal experiences on the water and by taking advantage of the wealth of educational media available. Reading Tom Rosenbaur’s Prospecting for Trout as a boy completely shaped me as a fly angler, and it can do the same for you. If reading a book don’t fit your learning style, you can find a host of teachers willing to impart their expertise on YouTube.
Fly fishing can seem like an intimidating, complicated sport to get into; but if you keep things simple and put in a little time to practice basic skills, you may just fall in love.
Article Written by: Seth Ewing and posted by Patrick Edwards
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]]>Patrick Edwards recently caught a new state record fish. He was fishing for suckers and walleyes on a cold April afternoon and caught his second state record fish.
]]>Patrick Edwards recently caught a new state record fish. He was fishing for suckers and walleyes on a cold April afternoon and caught his second state record fish.
This time he hooked into a longnose sucker. These fish are usually smaller than white suckers and are identified by there much longer sucker mouth and their unique scale pattern. He wasn't exactly sure what kind of sucker he had when he caught it.
Patrick set the record for the largest white sucker in Wyoming in March of 2020. He hadn't targeted suckers since that catch 3 years ago. He decided that since he hadn't fished for them in a while that it was time to give it another shot and maybe break his old record. When he reeled in a large longnose, he didn't even give it second thought until he got it back home. Once he had it home, he reached out to Ben Linnell and Jim Zumbo to help him ensure the correct identification. They both agreed that it was a longnose and that prompted Patrick to look at see if it was a record.
He wasn't disappointed! The fish was a full pound larger than the state record caught less than a year earlier.
You can read more details about the record catch here below.
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RAD Cast Outdoors is proud to welcome Hi Mountain Seasonings as a sponsor of the RAD Cast Outdoors Podcast. David Merrill, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is a firm believer in Hi Mountain Seasonings and has used them for many years on his wild game, burgers and all other meats. He feels that creating a relationship between Hi Mountain and RAD Cast Outdoors is a perfect match, and he is excited to share Hi Mountain with the podcasting world. Patrick Edwards, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is also a believer in their wide range of products. He has been using the fish brine, jerky kits and bacon cure for years. Hi Mountain is an American company and is the industry leader in wild game seasonings and curing.
Hi Mountain will be sponsoring the show and also the "Recipe of the Week" segment on each podcast. The podcast will feature mouth watering recipes by Hi Mountain that you will surely enjoy. Here are a few examples.
]]>RAD Cast Outdoors is proud to welcome Hi Mountain Seasonings as a sponsor of the RAD Cast Outdoors Podcast. David Merrill, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is a firm believer in Hi Mountain Seasonings and has used them for many years on his wild game, burgers and all other meats. He feels that creating a relationship between Hi Mountain and RAD Cast Outdoors is a perfect match, and he is excited to share Hi Mountain with the podcasting world. Patrick Edwards, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is also a believer in their wide range of products. He has been using the fish brine, jerky kits and bacon cure for years. Hi Mountain is an American company and is the industry leader in wild game seasonings and curing.
Hi Mountain will be sponsoring the show and also the "Recipe of the Week" segment on each podcast. The podcast will feature mouth watering recipes by Hi Mountain that you will surely enjoy. Here are a few examples.
Go shop at Hi Mountain's website www.himtnjerky.com. Be sure to tell them RAD Cast Outdoors sent you.
]]>RAD Cast Outdoors is proud to welcome PK Lures as a sponsor of the RAD Cast Outdoors Podcast. Patrick Edwards, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is a huge believer in PK Lures and has used them since 2008. He feels that this relationship is great and is excited to share PK with the podcasting world. Patrick has caught notable fish on the various PK products including (but not limited to):
RAD Cast Outdoors Welcomes New Sponsor
RAD Cast Outdoors is proud to welcome PK Lures as a sponsor of the RAD Cast Outdoors Podcast. Patrick Edwards, Co-host of RAD Cast Outdoors is a firm believer in PK Lures and has used them since 2008. He feels that creating a relationship between PK and RAD Cast Outdoors is great, and he is excited to share PK with the podcasting world. Patrick has caught notable fish on the various PK products including (but not limited to):
PK Lures is dedicated to making some of the best products on the market. They have a reputation for making some of the very best ice fishing lures that have ever been made. The PK Spoon and PK Flutter Fish are absolute killer lures through the ice and in open water. Patrick has had incredible success using these various lures on the ice for many seasons.
Patrick and David are excited about working with a company that shares the values of getting more anglers involved in the sport of fishing. Patrick said, "It is awesome to work with a company that truly cares about recruiting more anglers and one that cares about making a high quality fishing product. I think we will work very well together." You can find information on PK Lures at www.pklure.com.
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